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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 5:17 pm 
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Location: Front Royal, VA
After putting at least 200 hard miles on the RD after we exorcised the previous electrical demons I had confidence the fix was good. This time around different symptoms as follows:

Normal 1 kick started from cold after setting a couple weeks. Normal warmup and down the road I go. 1/2 mile or so from the house (Downhill of course) it was like I cut off the ignition. Difference this time no blown breaker. Neutral light green and pretty. Headlight works so does tailight. No brake lights. Turn signals inop and last but not least no spark. 85 degrees and humid I call my dear friend and neighbor Sam Esteppe who stops baling hay to come and drag me off the road with a tow strap as time before departure to work was growing nigh.
He accelerated to 30 MPH and somehow I managed to remain upright with the strap around the forks for the 1/2 mile uphill journey home. Upon arrival I pulled the wet plugs and stuck a new b8 in the plug wires and no spark. I checked for obvious damage and there was nothing. Batt voltage 12.5. Bright headlight.
I am considering ordering a new harness from economy and a MZB. It was a good thing I didnt have my pistol and now I understand why you see a fist sized impression in RD tanks just in front of the seat....
Please send a priest certifed in electrical demons.

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:15 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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Tim, you might try bypassing the ignition and handlebar switches with a jumper wire directly from the battery positive, to the coil feeds. I am assuming the ignition system is still points, if not, power it up from a direct wire from the battery, and see if the thing comes back to life.

I have seen strange stuff like electrical heat cause the terminals on the ignition switch, and handlebar switch recess into their respective holders, losing contact with the buss bars in the switch, carbon buildup on the switch terminals, and, of course, wires that have become pinched, end terminals that had most of the wire strands cut by the factory crimping operation break after a few years, leaving the terminal appear it is OK, but, disconnected in the insulation, wire makes contact in one position, disconnects itself in other positions when bars are turned, the usual other stuff.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 7:34 am 
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I was thinking ignition switch also. My Yamaha 100 had a broken piece in the ignition switch assembly, and the bike would run, but no connection to battery which caused it to blow headlight bulbs. Strange things can happen in that switch.


Lane


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 8:26 am 
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Location: Front Royal, VA
I hope to have time to have a look tomorrow. Thanks for the replies...

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:53 am 
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Location: Heber Springs, Arkansas
Tim, are you running a H4 headlamp? Did you try keeping the head light turned off? These things must have full potential from the battery or they won't fire and the flasher relay won't cycle.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 7:17 am 
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Yeah running an H4 but it is off. It works when turned on. There is no power to the ignition, brake light, and turn signals. everything else works. I am gonna work on it a couple hours this morning. heading out in a few as soon as my coffee works and I attain consciousness...

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 8:05 am 
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Using this diagram: http://cycles.evanfell.com/category/mot ... tyPhoto/5/
The lighting you say doesn't work is all fed by the Brown wire.
The Brown wire gets power from the Red wire thru the ignition switch and the connector attached to it.
I'd say the switch is bad or the connector is faulty.
You could jumper the red at the fuse to brown at ign coil and everything should work... that bypasses the ignition sw and connector.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:25 am 
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Location: Front Royal, VA
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Thanks to everyone for their invaluable assistance...It took a grand total of 10 minutes to fix. :thumbup: :thumbup: I saw the unhooked wire as soon as I pulled the headlight out of the bucket, thank you God. I hate electrical demons... Started 1st kick and it runs the best it ever has today. Apparently my half ass repair for a previous bad connection didn't hold. I eliminated the butt connector shown and had enough slack to run a male bullet connector into the double brown wire receptacle. I also had a long phone consult with the good Dr. Haase and he concurred with you all . He told me it was either the switch or the double brown wire connector in the bucket, which it was. 8-) 8-)
30 hard miles and many wheelies later not a hiccup... I tentatively declare the new demon exorcised.

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 11:24 am 
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Location: houston texas
https://youtu.be/xMUKPUjxmF4

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:34 pm 
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I love it when a plan comes together.......



Lane


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