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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2025 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2024 4:11 am
Posts: 71
Location: California
Center cylinder worked out nice. I'll doubled check the Right, it must have been me.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2025 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 10020
Location: North Central NC
If I'm understanding this correctly, this means your crankshaft has the typical slight phasing error. Use a timing light to adjust the three pickups so the sparks occur at the L, R, and C lines on the rotor. This is done at 4,000 RPM, and some timing lights have trouble at this speed.

Here's my post about a timing light that works well at 4,000 sparks per minute (equiv to 8,000 RPM on a 4-stroke engine). It's an old post, so the price has gone up some. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=3619

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2025 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2024 4:11 am
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Location: California
Jim wrote:
If I'm understanding this correctly, this means your crankshaft has the typical slight phasing error. Use a timing light to adjust the three pickups so the sparks occur at the L, R, and C lines on the rotor. This is done at 4,000 RPM, and some timing lights have trouble at this speed.

Here's my post about a timing light that works well at 4,000 sparks per minute (equiv to 8,000 RPM on a 4-stroke engine). It's an old post, so the price has gone up some. https://www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/view ... =25&t=3619


Jim, I appreciate your feedback. Thank You


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2025 9:24 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 10020
Location: North Central NC
You can reset the pointer with the dial indicator for each cylinder to correct for the crank error, too.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2025 3:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2024 4:11 am
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Location: California
Jim wrote:
You can reset the pointer with the dial indicator for each cylinder to correct for the crank error, too.



I didn't think of that, I assumed all 3 would be aligned with the pointer once the Left cylinder ( or any of the 3) was done. I'll give that a crack as it seems like the most precise method for each cylinder.

Thanks Jim


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2025 5:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:01 am
Posts: 344
Location: Metamora, MI
.5 to 1.5 degrees is "normal" common.
Cranks twist.
more than 3° is cranked.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2025 3:39 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3164
Setting the timing on that ignition is somewhat harder than most. There are actually two specs for degrees per cylinder, two timing "lines" (projections). EACH cylinder should be dial indicated separately, and new lines be added if they are not accurate. One line is for IDLE timing, the other for TOTAL. Do not be concerned about the IDLE tab, we want the TOTAL to be correct.

Dial indicate each cylinder separately, use the setting of 3.13mm to set/remark.

Setting the pickup gaps, each by themselves, all using a NON-MAGNETIC feeler gauge, .015 to .018 thick.

After the above, use a battery powered timing light to check each timing set you made, at the 4K rpm's stated above. Line each timing line up, one cylinder at a time.

DO NOT USE A "DIAL BACK" FEATURE ON THE TIMING LIGHT, LEAVE THE DIAL BACK OFF, OFF, OFF OFF, OFF.

Why not a Dial Back??? Well, the dial back feature is only for Electronic Fuel Injection systems that set and time the engine through the EFI computer. The EFI computer has a "computation lag" time to read and set timing that our analog systems do not have. The Dial Back returns timing that is set with computation lag back to correct, on EFI ignition systems. Our analog systems have NO computation lag, so, we do not need to :return the timing to correct by eliminating the computation lag"... We do not have the lag in the first place. Leave the Dial Back dial OFF.


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