Yes, that is the first part of it, the FDM (Factory Directed Modification), end cap O ring crush depth.
The other part of the oiling system tech is the relief pressure, measured in air pressure, through the check valve. MOST check valves release somewhere down from what they should, 2.5 to 3.1 PSI of AIR only. Measure with a hand held and actuated low pressure pump, banjo bolt, nut and washers through the oil line at the oil pump end fitting on the line, GENTLY pump the line up, and LISTEN to the valve, you will hear when the valve reaches its "blow level".
I have not used anything past stock parts, but there are others here, and KTOG that have gone far enough to modify stuff to work. All I ever did was to gently stretch the stock spring, to get the valve to blow off at 4.6 PSI, which is what the factory engineers for both Kawasaki and Mikuni specified. 4.60 PSI of AIR pressure.
We came up with both these procedures when there were problems of over oiling, and also, modified the oil pump baile (the wheel the cable attaches to). Stock, the wheels were adjusted way too rich. We modified the cable holder on the baile to allow the LAST DOT on the pump to align with the line on the side post at FULL THROTTLE, no richer. Look at the baile, and the one post with the line, full throttle, last dot to the line, correct. OF COURSE, THIS SETTING IS DONE AFTER GETTING THE IDLE, AND CABLE SET, AND THE CARBS BALANCED, WIT THE ENGINE OFF, OFF, OFF.
Oil pump eccentric is designed to reach 20:1 fuel to oil ratio at the last dot to line, and at idle, 100:1 fuel to oil ratio.
I never did get explanations as to just why a brand new motorcycle had the timing and pickup gaps incorrect, float levels too high, carbs not balanced, and oil pumps not adjusted correctly, with too low a blow off pressure for the oil limes, one would figure it would have been done correctly right out of the factory, from Mikuni, and/or Kawasaki.
Hope this helps.
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