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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2021 7:56 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
Posts: 154
Location: NY
I had a little time to work on the bike. I decided to get rid of the clicking feel up front. Installed some tapered roller bearings.


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2021 9:53 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
Posts: 154
Location: NY
New Seat cover and foam are in. A little pan clean up and paint soon.


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2021 6:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
Posts: 154
Location: NY
Top of seat pan suffers the most from foam retaining moisture. Original foam was mostly a crumbly yellow substance. Pan is in pretty good shape in general.
Trim pieces are in good shape, just have to get the 6 mounting screws.


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
Posts: 154
Location: NY
Working on cleaning the engine case. I made a plate to keep the grunge away from the crank and rods.
It's almost clean enough to remove the oil injection and side cover.


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 9:20 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
Posts: 154
Location: NY
H2RTuner wrote:
A Brillo pad works better than plain steel wool.

I did quite a bit of sanding, and then Brillo. Getting close.


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2020 5:19 am
Posts: 146
Location: canton, ct
Guys, after you get these aluminum parts looking good, is there any way to keep them shiny? Or are they just going to start oxidizing and over time?

Dave, still hunting for my H2


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 7:11 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3164
When I do an aluminum car distributor conversion, it comes with a complete rebuild, including glass bead blasting. This disturbs the aluminum, to the point it is uneven and the pores are open to collecting greases, dirt, oils, grime, and not easily cleaned. What I do to "dress" the blasted surface back to darned near stock finish, is to take the part to the sink, use warm water and Brillo pads, NOT steel wool, BRILLO pads, hand massaged. The pores are closed back down, the finish is good, and the grime and dirt, oils, greases are not held in the open pores.

Try it on a s crap piece of aluminum, it might be what you seek

I tried to add a picture of a Chevy distributor with the process already done to it, but I don't know if it worked. EDIT: Looks like it worked.

Attachment:
Chevrolet HEI front.JPG


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 6:49 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:59 am
Posts: 154
Location: NY
Never2Old wrote:
Guys, after you get these aluminum parts looking good, is there any way to keep them shiny? Or are they just going to start oxidizing and over time?

Dave, still hunting for my H2

I'm going to spray them with SprayMax 3680061, 2K Urethane Clear Coat.


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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 7:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2718
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Many spray coatings will yellow with time and/or not withstand gas/oil.
Polished surfaces will remain looking good with an occasional wipe with Nevr-Dull.
http://www.nevrdull.com/

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 Post subject: Re: 1972 Kawasaki H2 750
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2021 3:55 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3164
Try the Brillo pad first, then, if you must, coat with the clear. Dale is right, most all the clear coatings eventually yellow.


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