Do as you wish. Oils usually have certain small amounts of acids within them, even clean, fresh oils. Used, and new valves will have small amounts of checking on the ball, and seat, and, will have a slight leak if new ball, and dress the seat are not done. It isn't a quality control issue, it is an age related etching/checking issue. I have seen plenty of check balls that have etched circles on the ball, same place and size as the seats they sat against, even new old stock valves. A small seat dressing tool (I build my own specialty tools, this was just another of them), and new ball bearing stopped the "leaking, weeping, seeping".
Mikuni specified in every conversation, with both myself, and a lots of others, that the tests should be dry, and not vacuum, nor reversed pressure, but, positive pressure in the direction of flow, with the pressure pop off, 4.6 psi. Oiling up the valve to check pressure is a crutch for not doing it the way Mikuni says it should be done.
As far as myself, that is the way I have done them, with NO problems afterwards.
I see no "loose tolerances" reasons our engines seize, except for people insisting on doing things incorrectly, and I have seen tons of that in the 4 plus decades I have worked on, and raced them.
I haven't seen anyone in this topic so far insist anyone insist doing it any alternate way than they wish. If you encounter problems after doing it, please don't blame loose tolerances, nor poor quality control, a lot of others haven't induced those problems doing it other ways. Lower relief pressures add oil volume, too high a pop off pressure will restrict delivered oil volumes down, leaner. There is a practical, common sense limit not to exceed.
Best of luck.
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