Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I am wondering if maybe the stud is just bending? As if it was dropping then it would mostly be loose of the corrosion one would think.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

I recently used the Acetone / transmission fluid method a couple months ago on my H1. it took about a week before I was able to get all three cylinders off.

We have a Winner! I went out last night and further scrutinized the situation and when I tried to put the head bolt on it would not go on to the stud. I blew all the fluids out and looked in and saw the stud is bent over against the cylinder wall. It is now locked on even harder. It could get ugly out there today.

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

If you can get it on a mill ,you can use an end mill like a drill and drill/mill the stud down to the case top.
just a suggestion to save the cylinders from the saw.
good luck mark

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she will never be pretty but she is a fun ride.

73 KAWASAKI H1 (Sold).
82 YAMAHA RD350LC
2000 KAWI KDX200H
2001 Triumph TT600

On the Contrary my good man, all suggestions are taken with much gratitude. I am heading out with the saws-all right now.

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

It worked okay. I sawed off the offending studs about an inch above the case and pounded them off. The studs turned right out of the case so it's all good.

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

love a "Happy ending "me.

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she will never be pretty but she is a fun ride.

73 KAWASAKI H1 (Sold).
82 YAMAHA RD350LC
2000 KAWI KDX200H
2001 Triumph TT600

I went to the hardware store. S3 motor never been apart. Bought 1/2 in tube. Modified tube on bench grinder to fit inside cylinder stud hole. Tube fit 1/2 in drill chuck. Put drill chuck into hammer drill filled hole in cylinder with PB Blaster. Vibrated and then 2 whacks with hammer on old hammer handle in exhaust ports and off came the cylinders. This worked on all 3 cylinders. 75 S3 motor that had never been apart. Some of the studs were red with rust all the way up the stud from the bottom.

One bit of info on the studs and holes in the cases. Those items are NOT threaded with regular plug gap threads, they are done with what is a "roll", or, "rolled" thread. Take a close look at both threads, the ends of the 'flutes' are not sharp, they are blunt, or, rolled edge'd. That is the way a rolled thread looks.

Those roll threads are a bit stronger than a sharp flute cut thread, and it is important to 'clean'them with the correct roll thread type tap, and NOT a plug type thread tap. It is also important to only use the right type fastener in those to thread holes, a plug thread bolt, stud will weaken threads in metals like aluminum, magnesium, etc.

We are all aware of the stock studs, however, factory H2R studs use the same too thread, length, diameter, head bolt, but are'wasted", their diameters in-between threads are cut down, to the base diameter of the thread cut. Example, stud diameter is 10mm, wasted diameter would be down to the minimum diameter of the thread, say, 8.2mm.

Myself, I have Allen wrench ended set screws ground down to waste cut them into studs, Allen end allows easy maintenance, and always, anti-seize on the threads, and it doesn't hurt to coat the outside of the stud shank, either.

Just info to consider.