Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Hi, have just replaced the oil line check valve to the left cyl with new one as the old one was shot and still blowing back through new one. 2 were supplied and I have tried both. Just can`t understand it. Checked the right corresponding one with the engine running and it seems to have about the same pressure. The oil lines come out of the pump one for left and one right, and then split into 2, one supplying the barrel and one the crank bearing on either side. The faulty left crank one or lower one blows back and even disrupts the higher line via their junction. You can clearly see oil being blown back through the line. What are chances both new ones are faulty? How much pressure would it take to wreck the old one and then blow by the new one(s). What inside the engine could cause this pressure to be greater than normal? The bike has been slowly restored and new top end, good compression, just always had a slight misfire on the right side, after a period of riding, maybe 5 mins maybe 15 mins it suddenly starts to misfire real bad and then becomes unrideable. I have chased this through all the systems, (rebuilt carbs, replaced outer crank seals, rebuilt oil pump seals, coils, plugs, plug leads, caps, points, condensers, Checked and re-checked the timing etc) now awaiting old original rectifier and regulator to replace the modern combined rect/reg wired into the bike when bought. Any ideas? Steve.

Repost your question here:

http://www.suzuki2strokes.com/forum/ind ... b1d0f175ef

Lots of T500 lovers there.



Lane

Thanks lane, I will (have), but to be honest I never get any really good advice there. It is set up identically to this site but is not a candle to the awesome help I have enjoyed here. I have never failed to get a problem solved here and never had one solved there. Steve.

For anyone interested, the new (old) original rectifier and regulator seem to have done the job. However the oil check valve problem has not changed and re-posting on the sundial motorsports page has provided nothing after 2 weeks or so, ( as predicted). I have the new 2 check valves provided by the vendor and will change the offending one again but just can`t see it solving the problem. Has anyone heard of this problem at all. I just can`t see how it gets past the check valve. 70sjapmotorbikeparts are the ebay suppliers of the check valve and have provided 2 new ones which is great, they say they have only 2 reported failures in x hundred, so for me to get 2 failures out of 2 would be mathematically almost impossible. Any advice or similar experiences would give me somewhere to go. At the moment I don`t have any direction to go, I`m out of ideas. Steve.

The only thing I can think of is a bad crank seal. I know you said you replaced the outer ones. Usually when a T500 has bad inner seals it smokes horribly due to burning tranny oil.



Lane

It doesn`t smoke badly, but the inner seal has yet to be changed, it`s in line behind the H1 crank rebuild currently underway. Thanks.

Actually the misfire has not been solved by replacing the reg and rectifier. The right side still misfires at idle and although the bike would run ok, it would suddenly get worse and right side not run at all. Now it does it all the time, the problem is not intermittent anymore. I have checked everthing. Whilst checking the timing and points I noticed the following; the points for the right have a visible spark as the engine runs, the left point does not spark at all. No amount of changing the points gap slightly or moving the points mount up or down will change this. I had thought that it was natural that functioning points should show a spark similar to the plug, but why is the points for the good side, left, not sparking whilst the right does, and won`t run properly. The manual is crap on this and only explains how to test condensers etc with special testers which I don`t have and am not willing to try to find? It`s got to the point that I have rebuilt this bike completely trying to fix this problem and am just out of ideas. I will have to sell it for stuff all, not running properly with so much time and money spent as I have no direction to go. I can`t see how the centre crank seal can cause this as it seems now to definitely to be electrical. Have posted on Sundial but never get much there. Any ideas would be helpful, Steve.

I would replace the condenser. The purpose of the condenser is to keep the points from sparking. If the points are sparking, the condenser is probably bad. Worst case it's cheap to try and you will know one more thing that it's not.

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

That rings a bell. I had a T500 in '69 (yeah, I know) and people would replace points thinking the job was done, but it was often the condenser. Yep, the points shouldn't spark.

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

And you`re right. Even though I had replaced the condensers with the points when I first got it the right one has obviously been faulty all this time, and being intermittent was hard to diagnose. But new condenser has done the trick. Bike now runs pretty good. Just need to play with the tuning a bit. It seems to run better with the original baffles out and I just have basically tubing in there with holes. Sounds good and seems to have better mid to top end. Does anyone think this will have any negative effects?