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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 5:23 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 5:27 am
Posts: 3
Location: Norton Uk
Hi, Im intending to build the above and have an h2 engine, ive looked at the resources and have found a diagram of how to cut the cylinders to swap left and right to fit in the frame. The diagram is too blurred and i can not see the the shaded areas to cut. I just wondered if anyone had a clearer picture? Do people cut the outer heads or do they use three centre heads?

I was intending to port it to h2r spec as per the same document, has any one actually used this spec. And if so how did they get on with it.

Im intending to get the bike road registered..........

Thanks

Morts


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
I'm using H2R porting from the resource site, but with Aylor reeds and boost ports. Carbs are VM34 and I've recut the combustion chambers for better squish. It's a great and strong-pulling combination. I understand you might want to stay true to the H2R specs without reeds. I would guess that porting will be a lot nicer than peak power, drag type porting.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 8:28 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 5:27 am
Posts: 3
Location: Norton Uk
Thanks Jim, how do you find the reeds


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 9:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
I just move the carbs out of the way, and there they are. :lol:

I would hate to have to ride my H2 without them! Long before I got the reeds, I had done the Denco "95 hp" porting and as recommended in that spec, went to VM34s and chambers. The low end was noticeably weaker, and of course the power peak was noticeably stronger than stock. My goal when adding the reeds a few years ago was to gain at the bottom and mid without losing top end. With the H2R porting and the reeds, the increase is everywhere. It's not just seat of the pants, as I had to deal with some clutch slipping after the change. The low end torque is so strong now that when riding out in the country as I mostly do, I rarely downshift from 5th, even up hills or when slowing to go through a town. Unless of course I want some excitement. :)

Jorgen here on the board has done extensive dyno testing of various H2 engine setups, and has found combinations that provide very strong midrange and peak power without reeds, so if you want to stay more true to the H2R specs, he can provide excellent advice. But I don't think you can have the bottom end torque I have without reeds of some kind. It's stronger than stock, but with a much better top end.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 10:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Morts wrote:
Thanks Jim, how do you find the reeds


Here..... ;)

http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/aylor/

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
There's Mr. Aylor now. :) He does excellent porting as well as the reeds, which I know of firsthand, since I've ridden his amazing H2 powered H1. I mentioned Jorgen because he has made a zillion dyno runs in the last couple years, and may have some curves for the H2R spec porting in particular.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2016 4:10 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2016 5:27 am
Posts: 3
Location: Norton Uk
Thanks sounds good, ill look at his posts and try and make a decision,i still need someone to help with cutting the outer barrels

Cheers

Morts


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 4:53 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:26 am
Posts: 797
All those dyno sheet dynoing Denco, TNT, FBG (old style), Higgspeed, Figaroli, Figaroli 3:1, stock pipes and them mighty Jollymoto are on this board somewhere. (dynoed with a heavily ported H2)

For additional information, you may look into this thread: Yes, a lot of pages, but good info from many contributors throughout the thread.

A summary of most of the results I have will soon be available at the great Resource Site, especially how everybody easily can achieve making a 100 hp H2 without loosing low end.
With my H2, I can easily start in fifth gear below 1000 rpm and accelerate without clutch abuse. The video is here: (stock gearing. Tacho and Speedo is true readings, digital)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgztkGq_1K0


Merry Christmas everybody :)

http://kawasakitriples.myfastforum.org/ ... 0-asc-.php

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72 H2, 72 H1B, 74 H2, 74 H2 Cafê Racer, 71 F8 Bison


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Here are some of the dyno sheets referenced:
http://3cyl.com/mraxl/performance/perfo ... risons.htm

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 7:14 pm
Posts: 936
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Gotta add to Jims post......put reeds, did some millwork on the cylinders, and strapped 30s to the s3 and it's a whole new bike. Clutch breaks loose around 6k when the power band comes on hard in gears 3-5, sometimes 2nd. One day I really need to figure out how to get an extra plate in there. :thumbup: I have reeds on the H2 but lacking millwork and carbs and it pulls pretty strong down low, enough I don't have to push it to make it go or shift. :thumbup:

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74 H2B with reeds and 34mm carbs
75 S3A Ram Air with reeds and 30mm carbs
73 S2A (wife's bike)
71 Yammi RT1B
83 HD Sportster
03 Yammi R1
06 Kaw 750 Vulcan (wife’s bike)
12 Yammi vstar 250 (wife’s bike)


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