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Enthusiasts from around the world dedicated to the preservation and ritual flogging of the infamous Kawasaki 2-stroke Triples
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 11:38 pm 
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Jim C wrote:
[quote="Ja-MooThat would be great, as I won't be doing anymore, way too much trouble..........


Meaning it was too much trouble for you to machine or to big a hassle to coordinate with a shop?
If the material they used wasn't so crazy hard & thick it sure would be easier.[/quote]

My CNC guy is just super busy, so small jobs get pushed back. This one took 9 months. Not worth the bother.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 10:51 am 
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me, id water jet or laser cut them. just my .02


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:29 am 
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m in sc wrote:
me, id water jet or laser cut them. just my .02



Maybe not a bad idea.... Break the rivets, waterjet/ laser, Blanchard grind then re-install with Fasteners...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:33 am 
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Walms wrote:
m in sc wrote:
me, id water jet or laser cut them. just my .02



Maybe not a bad idea.... Break the rivets, waterjet/ laser, Blanchard grind then re-install with Fasteners...



any reason not to Freaking Lazer them as they are?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:46 am 
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scrambler73 wrote:
any reason not to Freaking Lazer them as they are?

Some of the cutting in the one in John's photo is only partway through. You could make cutouts with a laser, but you couldn't remove the metal in the center hub and leave the ring like John's has.

What's the story on aluminum rotors like these? They're well under 3 lbs.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Brake-Systems/Part-Type/Brake-Rotors/Product-Line/Wilwood-Aluminum-Brake-Rotors/
Good for one race only, or durable?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:43 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
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As I said, think CNC, as both water and laser jets are CNC these days.

As far as using a milling machine and milling tool, I used a carbide (not as good as others), then boron drill bit to drill the stock discs we did in 1972. It was still a pain, as I started with a 1/4 inch bit, then, went to the 1/2 inch hole, and all done on a milling machine, analog type, with rotary table, all by hand, 72 holes per disc. Took 5 evenings, 4 hours per evening.

Later in 1973, I made a drill jig tool, one that fit the disc into a recessed holder, with the 72 holes in it, with drill guides, so we could do the drilling on a drill press. Someplace he4re, I still ahve that drill jig, hidden from me now. Did another one for the rear disc we used, off a triumph car, 8 inch diameter. The Triumph discs drilled seriously easier, they were cast iron, self lubing, and the hardness orf Silly Putty.

It was way past medium spectacular when we sprung it on the world in the tech line at Daytona, 1973. We held back these discs until the official AMA tests started, and ran undrilled stockers for the first 3 days of open testing. When the discs were first noticed, I was sitting on the one bike in the tech line, with Steve standing next to it, some folks just walked aimlesly away, muttering to themselves. Others just went instantly to 'Japanese think position' (full squat) and out fingers thriugh the holes.One guy from another team saw them laughed loudly, and, then looked at me, then Steve, then the discs, and took off at high speed run to his pals, bringing (dragging) them back to see it all. Nobody else from his team laughed. Worked GREAT. I love stealth!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:50 pm 
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Jim wrote:
scrambler73 wrote:
any reason not to Freaking Lazer them as they are?

Some of the cutting in the one in John's photo is only partway through. You could make cutouts with a laser, but you couldn't remove the metal in the center hub and leave the ring like John's has.

What's the story on aluminum rotors like these? They're well under 3 lbs.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Brake-Systems/Part-Type/Brake-Rotors/Product-Line/Wilwood-Aluminum-Brake-Rotors/
Good for one race only, or durable?


Kawasaki tired plasma sprayed AL discs on some race bikes, the AL melted. Not sure, but they "might" be ok on the street.

And I left the aluminum "band" connecting the disc ears for safety reasons. It might be overkill. Not sure how you could test it both ways, but I'm sure there is a way.........

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:30 pm 
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the main cutting could be done with a waterjet or laser and the pattern could be a bit different. the pocket cutting is really minimal in weight loss. and unless the pockets are radiused in the corners thats a good spot to crack. just my .02


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:52 pm 
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m in sc wrote:
the main cutting could be done with a waterjet or laser and the pattern could be a bit different. the pocket cutting is really minimal in weight loss. and unless the pockets are radiused in the corners thats a good spot to crack. just my .02


The cutouts do remove a lot of weight Mark, if that's what you are talking about.......

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:42 pm 
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Location: Rockville, MD USA
m in sc wrote:
the main cutting could be done with a waterjet or laser and the pattern could be a bit different. the pocket cutting is really minimal in weight loss. and unless the pockets are radiused in the corners thats a good spot to crack. just my .02


I agree; leave the mounting band alone and cut whatever rectangle that works with either water, laser, mill or whatever you got.
Write the tape one time, wiait till you have 10 guys with good rotors and knock them out.

Think they could be done for $75-100 each not including shipping?
Don't have any water jet or laser connections here in MD.

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