Kawi2strokes.com Forum

A major concern and problem area with Triples is with oil line check valves. Defective check valves can leak causing excessive smoking or even bent rods from hydrolocking. Stuck valves can prevent cylinder oiling. The spec for crack pressure was increased from early (pre '74) valves from 2.8psi. Early check valves can easily be disassembled and cleaned.

New springs are now available along with new check balls for early check valves from members of the KTOG message board. This eliminates the need to make a test setup and reset springs for proper crack pressure. Here is a link to the KTOG thread: http://kawasakitriples.myfastforum.org/ ... 7790#37790

Here is a copy of that content:

Newly manufactured check valve springs made from phosphor bronze averaging 4.5 to 4.7 PSIG relief pressure. These springs have the small diameter on one end to "hold the check ball". Stock outside diameter and inside diameter and stock wire size. $5.00 each

New Chrome Steel check balls 0.125” (stock) diameter. $1.00 each

Shipping to the Continental US via USPS (in protective poly tube inside a bubble wrap envelope) = Free

To order please PM or email 12dot tv4fish@earthlink.net or Darth jimshreve@dcsamerica.com … your choice.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

I built a test rig but my problem is not getting the crack pressure, but holding it. It drops quickly and won't maintain pressure. I tried dressing the seat but no success. Hopefully the new ball should help? The old ones don't look damaged...

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

I smoothed up the seats with a wooded dowel sharpened to about a 90 degree point, with some tripoli on it, in a drill press. Then I cleaned the balls and used a hammer and aluminum drift to seat the balls, using a pretty good whack. They sealed well after that. If you're testing with air, they may not ever perfectly hold pressure, but with oil they should. I'm not recommending anyone hammer on them, but it worked for me.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Thank you for posting that Dale. I had seen Tom's ebay listing and put that kit on my mental "wish list", but w/free s&h, I will go ahead and just request one right now.

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

Only you would be so clever Jim. Well maybe not ONLY you but you're in the top of them

Are you an ENTP? Clever is the word that best describes an ENTP.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

I am not hoping to fit the definition. Maybe I just learned a little from Dad. He could always fix anything. He bought an H1 when he retired, just to fix it up and sell it. I guess he thought he'd make a post-retirement business working on motorcycles. One of the starter plungers was stuck, and he had to wreck it to get it out. Rather than try to find a new one, he made one on his lathe, complete with rubber insert on the bottom.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Ordered two sets. Thanks for posting.

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Iron On The Bayou.

Hey Pipes ... Darth from KTOG

I've been messing with these check valves for months now ... trying to find a way to get them to seal really good.

I have found a way to make these things seal again. I had three that I could not get to seal to save my life. After machining them, they sealed the first time and have been holding under "engine off" conditions for about week now. Not one drip.

They also hold really well between "pump cycles" ... like using your tester. Most likely a new ball will not help ... it didn't help mine. Also these things won't hold very well using air only. The tester I built uses "air over oil" which I believe is more realistic ... since there is oil in the lines.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRuOmjqxhus

Darth

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If you look for the bad in people expecting to find it, you surely will.