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Battery CDI's are more consistent throughout the rev range than magneto CDI's. Magnetro CDI's such as the H2, and other dirt bikes, have two separate charging systems in them, this is why the H1D and H2 has an ignition rectifier. One charge system works for the low end revs, the other for high end, because no one coil can adequately charge the system throughout the rev range from idle to red line. This makes for variable output over the rev range, whereas the battery system is consistent all the way through it. this is why we also see magneto CDI sysems on two stroke race bikes have plug gaps between .018 and .025, where the better mag systems, such as H1D and H2, use .035, and the battery H1 CDI's, .040 for the B9HS plugs.
Take a real close look at the gap on the surface gap plugs, they are large. A MAGNETO CDI WILL NOT BRIDGE THAT GAP, without losing spark efficiency, and this IS the reason they should be run only on a battery powered CDI setup ONLY.
Only times I ever saw these, and the B9's ever NOT work well in an early H1 was when some self proclaimed know it all tuner NOT set the float levels at 26 mm's on those carbs, change jetting, set the oil pump too high, get the timing wrong. EVERY time I ever saw these and the B9's not work, simply setting the variables right, float level, jetting, oil pump setting, timing, clean baffles, the spark plugs came back to working as they should, no fouling, problems.
I remember the B9's cost .35 each back then, and the BUHX was a whopping .40 each, what a price difference, wallet flattening for sure. Why, the cost difference alone would stop a fellow from getting a lunch for a whole week, it was so much difference.
Before I went to work at Team Kawasaki Road Race, I worked as a line mechanic at Steve Hurd's shop in Montebello, Ca. We got bikes in from all over, because Stan Udell and I would take the time to set the variables correctly, making the bikes run the right way, and NOT foul plugs, do stupid things. In the long run, we doing all the stuff nobody else did, helped us when the bike came in for service later in its lifetime, because it was right before, and didn't degrade, have problems. SAME applies for S and H2 bikes, don't set the variables, or set them wrong, EXPECT problems with their parts.
We see the effects of those know it all's every day here, someone buys a used bike that had this or that issue, fouling plugs, not running right, and some of it is because NOBODY, including the dealer "tuning expert" ever set the float levels right, nor this or that. But, what gets blamed, BUHX plugs, TWO STROKE OILS, everything but incorrectly set variables.
Not many people realize that Mikuni NEVER set the float levels in any of their carbs right for the application they were used on. Stan and I ALWAYS had to pull the carbs and set the floats on brand new, fresh out of the crate bikes, G, S, H and F series, and Z as well. And, we always had to reset the oil pump settings, as they came from Kawasaki way, way too rich, even for the so called "break in" period. We only found a very few engines that had the timing set right as well, mostly the point mag setups on the G and F series were right on, the CDI systems were off a bit, as well as just about EVERY pickup coil gap, straight off the assembly line. THAT is fact.
BUHX/UL17V/UL19V aren't the problem children they have been made out to be. It is the people that don't know how to set the engines/variables up right, that ARE.
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Yeah, Jim, the bike is 1/2 way to being 3/4's built! Stay tuned , pictures will start happening soon.............!
Thanks for all your input!