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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 4:36 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:13 am
Posts: 1001
Location: Auburn Ca
check the crank area before and if you go to kick it over and congrats. :thumbup: I still have my first.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 4:43 pm 

Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 3:45 am
Posts: 802
Location: Cen Tex
Congrats. Stage 1 is head work....

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 10014
Location: North Central NC
Stage 1 really depends on what the guy doing the work does for stage 1. Sometimes it's a port cleanup, sometimes it's mild port timing, etc..

What Dewman was saying is very important. Don't try to start it until you're sure the crankcase chambers don't have a bunch of oil in them. You many know, but in case you don't, you can bend a connecting rod very quickly.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:45 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:57 am
Posts: 131
Location: wind lake, wisconsin
Jim wrote:
Stage 1 really depends on what the guy doing the work does for stage 1. Sometimes it's a port cleanup, sometimes it's mild port timing, etc..

What Dewman was saying is very important. Don't try to start it until you're sure the crankcase chambers don't have a bunch of oil in them. You many know, but in case you don't, you can bend a connecting rod very quickly.


good advise, bought an H1 last year that had 2 chambers full of oil.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:02 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:57 am
Posts: 131
Location: wind lake, wisconsin
Stev-o wrote:
Congrats. Stage 1 is head work....


Pulled one of the heads, compared it to a stock head. no head work.

The exhaust port timing appears to be stock. looks like someone hogged out
sides of the exhaust port. not the sleeve, the aluminum past the
sleeve. thats all I can see from the top. cylinders looks good.
good splash on the piston.

the exhaust is 36.80 from the top of the cylinder.
might pull the cylinder to check the intake and
piston.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 1:00 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:13 am
Posts: 1001
Location: Auburn Ca
You can always send them to moo to fix a bad port job. :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 6:21 am 

Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:57 am
Posts: 131
Location: wind lake, wisconsin
Jim wrote:
Stage 1 really depends on what the guy doing the work does for stage 1. Sometimes it's a port cleanup, sometimes it's mild port timing, etc..

What Dewman was saying is very important. Don't try to start it until you're sure the crankcase chambers don't have a bunch of oil in them. You many know, but in case you don't, you can bend a connecting rod very quickly.


By the way Jim, the reproduction Dencos I bought from you a month ago for the H1 look great!

Still gotta them ceramic coated, but they look pretty sweet.


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Last edited by hoozier1 on Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:28 am, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 6:31 am 

Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:57 am
Posts: 131
Location: wind lake, wisconsin
Dewman418 wrote:
You can always send them to moo to fix a bad port job. :thumbup:


I don't think the work on them is bad, so far I can only see the exhaust port.
someone took the humps out of the casting inside of the port.
does not look amateur. Ive done that type of clean up on Yamaha
GPX cylinders back when I raced vintage sleds. Im going to put a
scope in the intake later on today. maybe I can see more.

I was actually glad to see that the port timing wasn't messed with.
I want to take this thing for a spin and see how it acts.
I may have some porting done. I can do the exhaust ports
myself I just don't have the tools for getting at the transfers.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:09 am 

Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:57 am
Posts: 131
Location: wind lake, wisconsin
here she is


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:03 pm
Posts: 2605
Location: Birthplace of Minnesota
them theres H1 dencos on that B


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