Kawi2strokes.com Forum

You could be in the house holding the couch down!!! I think it's cool your making it your own,, after all your the only one that needs to be pleased with its outcome

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1977 KH 400
1976 KH 250/350 rat bike
1971 KV 75
1976 KV 75

Thanks, I appreciate that!

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

My wife was hanging out int he shop with me (She's awesome, I know) and she touched the tank and then touched the frame. She asked 'Why does your tank feel bumpy and rough and your frame feels soft and smooth?' Not good

So, I decided to seek out more advice on finishing my clear coat. I ended up talking to a guy at work who has been doing body work for years and he said I likely wasn't getting into the clear coat with an aggressive enough sand paper. I did some trial-and-error and he was right. I took all of the panels off and did the following:
Wet sanded each with 1000 grit
Wet sanded with 1500
Cleaned with Meguires Mirror Glaze Medium Cut Cleaner on a wool Pad
Buffed with Meguires Mirror Glaze Fine Cut Cleaner on a foam pad
Polished with Meguires Mirror Glaze Machine Glaze on a foam pad
Final coat of Turtle Wax hard wax

Here's how it turned out. You can see my house in the reflection in the first picture


You can also make out my wrenches hanging on the wall and happily married photographer in the second

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

Looking very good!!
You got a lot effort into this project and it looks like it's paying off!
It is nice when the better half takes some time to realy look at what a guy does

I've got some more progress pics. Sorry it's been so long, I re-learned the hard way that steel moves around when you weld it. I had done some clean-up on some of the welds on my engine carriage and then it didn't fit when I tried to bolt it back onto the engine after paint

Oh well, I have better engine mounts now that will allow me to remove the heads/cylinders with the engine still in the bike

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

I decided to make a new throttle cable; one that would allow me to adjust the idle with a single screw. I hated how I had to adjust each carb inividually to get them synchronized, then adjust them all again to get the idle to where I wanted it. This fixes that.

I started 3/4" x 2" pipe nipple.
I placed a plastic cap on one end then packed in some of the 'jb weld' stuff that comes in putty form.
I drilled 5 holes, 4 around the perimeter, one in the center. The 4 holes around the outside are where the oil pump and carb cables come into the unit. The one in the middle gets tapped with an m5 thread to accept an idle adjustment screw from a 1994 Honda CBR.


I then cut the head off of a 7/8" x 6" bolt and ground down the od of the unthreaded shank so it would slip into the pipe nipple. Then I cut it off. I added 4 holes around the perimeter and one in the center as well. The holes do not go through. Each hole got tapped with an m5 thread


I cut slots between each hole and the perimeter to allow cables to pass through.

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

I used another plastic cap for the other end of the nipple.
I cut the top off of my stock H2 throttle junction and jb welded it to the plastic cap. I then drilled down through the center of that and tapped it to accept a cable adjuster.



Put it all back together and there you have it, a throttle cable that allows you to adjust the idle with a single screw


I did have to make a bracket that the junction box (pipe nipple) get attached to to keep it from spinning when I turn the idle adjust screw

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

Major kudos to you for doing so much of this work yourself!

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

You do realize the reason they have 3 adjustments is because of minor cable stretch and routing. And it is almost impossible to tighten the carbs top exactly the same each time you take them off, which changes the slide height. Also if you actually use a UNI or the like vacuum synchronizer, the slide usually don't end up the same height anyway. And finally, idle speed is not a problem anyway, once set.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

if cable stretch and routing are a real problem then they would be a problem with the stock setup. When the slides are resting on the idle screws the cables are slack. The amount of slack will vary from carb to carb. As soon as you twist the throttle the slides will start moving AT DIFFERENT TIMES, resulting in the cylinders not being synchronized. You can't get all of the slack out of the cables due to the fact that the handle bars turn, changing the cable and conduit relationships which could end up causing a 'rev up' condition if the bars are turned too far.

If cable stretch is a major contributing factor then I think we all have bigger problems.

This, along with the fact that the engineers had no fore-sight to put vacuum ports on the carbs, leads me to believe that they weren't too worried about synchronizing; that 'close is good enough'.

So, maybe the effort is wasted but I am going to give it a shot. I think it will be an improvement. If it doesn't work, I pay a few bucks and buy a stock cable and move on. If it does work, then great, I have made my life easier (and maybe someone else's who shares a similar opinion on the subject).

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50