Kawi2strokes.com Forum

2 cycle engines in general have very little vacuum signal that's why no vacuum ports were installed from the factory,,
Carb synch and slide synch are absolutely critical in getting your motor to run its best, otherwise you have a cylinder that will be leading and not working together as a team, I think your creativity is excellent but I feel it may not perform properly for getting your motor to run its best..
Bike is looking good and just my 2 cents

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1977 KH 400
1976 KH 250/350 rat bike
1971 KV 75
1976 KV 75

Synchronizing the carburetors involves both getting the idle speed screws set equally, and also getting the slides to all move off the idle stops at the same time. Slack must be left in the system for the reason you said... things like turning the handlebar cause the amount of slack in the single cable (before the splitter) to change. The slack is not a problem as long as all three are the same.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I thought about this cable your making and I can't understand it

I don't see how it would work, carb sync being the biggest problem…maybe I am missing something…..
After saying that Never let na-sayers keep you from trying new ideas

The overall build is really looking good, looking forward to some video when your completed.

To sync the carbs I will be using the adjusters located on the top of the carburetor slides. I can do this because I can keep the cables that go from the junction box to the carbs constantly under tension due to the idle screw added to the junction box. The carbs get synchronized with the cable adjusters, then I will adjust the idle on all cylinders at once using the idle screw. I can then adjust the amount of 'slack' in the cable that goes from the grip down to the junction box, which will prevent the engine from changing rpm when I turn the handle bars.

at least that's how it works in my head

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

I decided to investigate a way to 'lock-out' neutral on my h2 since it is very easy to accidentally shift into. When I was putting the transmission back together I noticed there was a black plastic ring on the end of the shift drum shaft. The plastic ring prevents the neutral switch contact from contacting a grounded metal surface. There's a bump on the shaft made of metal where the contact is will touch, making the light on the dash turn on. I decided to remove the black plastic ring, leaving just the bump on the shaft.

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

I then made a lockout pin that will move up and down about 3mm. This pin will engage the bump on the shift drum shaft. I used a nylon bushing and cut a cam groove in it. The pin has a hole for a 1/8" roll pin drilled in it. The pin rides in the cam groove

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

I made a mounting plate and attached the nylon bushing to it. I purchased a small 12VDC solenoid from Amazon and mounted that too. A shaft collar is attached to the lockout pin. The shaft collar has an extra screw added to it to act as a lever. The solenoid pushes on the screw/lever




Once that was done I added a bracket for the neutral light contact and painted everything. I wired the solenoid to the starter button since that doesn't get used. Here's a link to a video showing it in action

https://drive.google.com/open?id=15cuaH ... tPjCQVFKJw

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

The neutral indicator assembly is ver close to the carb bowl as it is, can you get the carb on with all that there?

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

It's a really tight fit but it does make it on. I made sure to check that often when making all of the brackets. I had to 'massage' things a couple of times

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50

It appears my ignition system is shot. I tried to start the bike yesterday and I blew the main fuse a couple of times. finally chased the problem down to a crossed wire in my ignition switch. Essentially, as soon as I tried to kick the engine over the ignition system would ground out.

Once I got the crossed wire issue fixed I tried starting the bike again. No go. Fuel: check. Compression: check. Spark: no checky! I was only getting fire on the right hand cylinder and I had to kick it pretty fast to get that.

I worked my way through the H1D/H2 CDI ignition test from the resource site (http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/cdih2/h2ignitiontest.htm). Here are my results:

From the section 'No Spark on any Cylinder':
Make sure kill switch is in "Run" position (if present). OK
Make sure the four ground wires of the CDI units have good connections to the mounting plate. OK
Make sure the CDI monting plate has a good connection to frame ground with a ground wire from it to a grounding bolt. OK
Measure the Low Speed coil resistance between Green & White wires from stator (3 pin connector). It should measure approximately 200 ohms and no less than 180 ohms. I could not get a constant reading on my ohm meter, the value would only show for 1 second. I would have to remove the leads from one wire and check again. the values bounced between 80 and 195 ohms, then go to open. I can only assume this means I have a very weak connection somewhere and it is over heating when I do the ohm test?

From the section 'Intermittent or Missing Spark on one or more Cylinders
Install new plugs OK
Insure ignition coil mounts are grounded OK
Resistance between engine cases and negative terminal should be 0 OK
Check if plug wires are arcing Can't get it to start so I can't check this. Plus, no spark......
Measure pickup coil resistance. Should be 200 ohm, no less than 160:
...Center:188.8
...Left: 192.4
...Right: 123.4 - odd because this is the one that fires

Measure ignition coil primary resistance. Should be approximately .8 ohms .7 on all three
Ignition coil secondary resistance. Should be approximately 4.5k
...Center: 4.36
...Left: 4.26
...Right: 4.43

From the section 'Testing the rectifier unit with a battery and test light
Connect battery negative to CDI Rectifier Black/White wire, battery positive to test light.
...Green wire: Light is lit, OK
...Blue wire: Light is lit, OK
...White wire: light is lit, OK
...Light green wires:
.......Right Cylinder: light does not come on, OK
.......Left Cylinder: Light comes on, not ok
.......Center Cylinder: Light comes on, not ok
Connect battery positive to CDI rectifier Black/White wire and battery negative to test light.
...Green wire: Light is not lit, OK
...Blue wire: Light is not lit, OK
...White wire: light is not lit, OK
...Light green wires:
.......Right Cylinder: light comes on, OK
.......Left Cylinder: light comes on, OK
.......Center Cylinder: light comes on, OK

I also worked through Dayle Edwards test procedure with similar results.

So, in summary, my low speed coil windings in my stator are bad, I have a bad pickup coil (for the cylinder that fires....) and two of my cdi units are bad.

Any suggests about how I should go about fixing this? Is it worth tracking down the oem parts or should I look at something aftermarket?

_________________
ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50