Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Enthusiasts from around the world dedicated to the preservation and ritual flogging of the infamous Kawasaki 2-stroke Triples
It is currently Sun May 12, 2024 5:20 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 103 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:39 am 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 2223
Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
I made a fancy laser cut plate to tie the 3 carbs together in an attempt to reduce the shaking. Unfortunately it didn't change anything performance wise.
With any luck, your Harley adaptors are made from crap rubber and will harden up in no time! :mrgreen:

Your bike sounds fantastic btw, nothing better sounding than clean thin metal chambers imo!

_________________
:wtf: :wtf: :wtf:

http://kawatriple.com/wtf/


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 9:05 am 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9844
Location: North Central NC
Walms wrote:
With any luck, your Harley adaptors are made from crap rubber and will harden up in no time! :mrgreen:


:lol:

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 9:18 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3147
What the factory did for the 35mm H1R, H2R and larger KR750 carbs was to employ a two piece setup to link all 3 carbs together.

At the lower end of the carbs, there was a steel plate that attached across all 3 carbs by the float bowl screws.

At the top end of the carbs, just above the air filter mounting boss, was a cut away that looked like a "C". A long shaft, threaded on both ends, with aluminum spacers between the carb bodies, sitting over the shaft, and a nice pair of clamping nuts, one on each end, held the tops of the carbs.

We found using just one of the devices caused no significant help in stopping carb movement from engine vibration, but, both in place, helped significantly. Mounting the whole deal was a bit of a job if you had never done one before, as you started with the carbs and brackets done up, then, the clamps and intake manifolds on them, loosely, then, manifolds to the cylinders, which were mounted to the engine. once the manifolds were on the studs for them on the intake ports, the manifolds were tightened in place, clamps tightened, and the whole business was good to go.

I am a big believer in dowel pins to align things, and all my engines had dowel pins for things like cylinders to cases, so everything went on in the same place it came off, as there is too much "slop" in things like cylinder studs to cylinder stud holes, cylinder heads to cylinders, etc. This practice was used more extensively in later 4 stroke engines, and we had thin wall hollow studs that fit over the studs. It helped get stuff placed and kept in place, and isn't all that hard to do.

Once the carbs were basically set up as one unit via the devices, the carbs worked a lot better.

On the hollow dowels, I do a lot of setup on things like tri-power car intake systems, that use physical linkages on the carbs. As there is slop in all carb base holess to studs, I do the hollow dowels to those carbs. Makes it a heck of a lot easier to remove just one carb to work on it, and get it back in the same place on the manifold, so you don't have to mess with the linkages between the carbs for a half hour getting them back in the same place they were before the carb(s) came off.

Just info to consider.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:14 am 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 2223
Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
I here Photobucket finally pulled thei head out of their butt so here's my fancy carb plate... unfortunately designed for PJ's and I have moved on to PWK's so pretty much wall art now! :lol:
Not sure if you are rubber mounted or solid mounted motor Joe, I find my whole engine vibrates at idle with the rubber mounts.
Image

_________________
:wtf: :wtf: :wtf:

http://kawatriple.com/wtf/


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:45 am 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
I have the smoothest solid mounted H2 motor on the planet :lol: :lol:
I have a plan, that includes large zip ties and LUCK!!
I was actually hoping for them to harden up a bit also... thats one reason I put the threaded rod in place because without it the carbs (because of the boots and they way they mount) are all just ever so slightly off from one to the next. Now they all are the same, and I figured the boots would take a "set" after a few heat cycles.

Looking forward to a longer ride tonight, a bit more of shakedown and some good carb syncing and maybe some jetting.

One thing this bike does is fulfill my need to tinker! :wtf:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:59 am 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9844
Location: North Central NC
Walms wrote:
... unfortunately designed for PJ's and I have moved on to PWK's so pretty much wall art now!


On the wall with your laser cut steel fish stencil?

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 11:06 am 
User avatar

Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
I found the 3D printed long tubes damp the carb vibrations well, I have foam Uni filters on the ends which all touch each other and the frame, happy with how it works.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 3:27 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:19 am
Posts: 191
Location: Wellington, Fl
Its a tight fit adding the silicone intake pipe and the uni filters. Little to no movement here as they are resting against the battery box. Added the manometer ports in the carbs.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 4:06 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
I have been thinking about runners for a while but the frame I have has the Denco bracing and I would have to cut it out ...which I may do someday. There are more than a few mods I think about on this bike mostly related to the mono shock, I need to knock min 1.5" off the ride height. But Im tall so it isn't to bad for me.

soflh2b hows it running?? How do you like the new set up?

You can see the X bracing where everyone runs the tubes.

ImageUntitled by Joe Herriges, on Flickr


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 4:33 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:19 am
Posts: 191
Location: Wellington, Fl
Starts 1st kick, a little cold blooded but runs real well after its warmed up, like anything else I guess. Just finishing the intake tube extensions, then try syncing it with the manometer, hoping to get a little more just off idle.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 103 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group