Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Installed a powerdynamo setup on my friend's 69 CDI Model, after it ate its 2nd rotor in 2 days...

I cannot get the bike over 5500(ish) rpm under load. Tried timing it at the 3mm they recommend, at 3.45mm per OE specs, and a bunch of places inbetween and around. Nothing gets me above 5500. The bike runs like a watch until that magical RPM range. With the stock system, it ran fine until the battery weakened due to no charge.

Anyone have any advice, success, or other experience with these on a triple?

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Current bikes listed in length of ownership

1975 Harley FXe (used to be E)
1983 Harley FLTC
1975 Kawasaki H1

I'm using Powerdynamo units in my vintage Jawas ... if I remember correctly, the electronic ignition coil will shut down at 17,5V. Check the voltage!

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2x 69" H1

You are not alone 'herbicide:

http://kawasakitriples.myfastforum.org/ ... asc-90.php

J

Hans had his 69 running the same after testing we found it wasn't charging properly.
The orange bulb must glow with KOEO key on engine off then go off when revved .
After all the testing it was just a bulb. Not saying that's your problem but?

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http://davestriples.com/

In case the voltage is OK, you may also check the polarity of the alternator. Holding a compass against engine cover while the engine is idling, compass needle should point towards the alternator (north pole located inwards). If not so, change pickup coil wires with each other for reversing pickup polarity.

Powerdynamo is just a label while the actual units are produced by VAPE spol. s.r.o. http://www.vape.cz/en/
I bought VAPE's ignition/alternator units for my Jawas around 7 or 8 years ago while their quality has dropped significantly within last years.

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2x 69" H1

Thanks everybody,

I checked voltage; 14.3-14.4V output throughout RPM range.

The compass needle points inward (north) towards engine at idle speeds. At higher speeds it returns to actual North....

Looks like its going back, but they haven't responded to my initial request a few weeks ago. I sure hope we aren't stuck with $600 worth of useless parts...

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Current bikes listed in length of ownership

1975 Harley FXe (used to be E)
1983 Harley FLTC
1975 Kawasaki H1

Another update; under further investigation, it won't maintain over 6k under no load either. This sells me that there is something about that rpm level that the magneto won't support.

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Current bikes listed in length of ownership

1975 Harley FXe (used to be E)
1983 Harley FLTC
1975 Kawasaki H1

Iowa, huh? You should check out Battleax's early H1 system I built.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Got pics, links, or any other info? Looked on you site and only saw the boxes.

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Current bikes listed in length of ownership

1975 Harley FXe (used to be E)
1983 Harley FLTC
1975 Kawasaki H1

Ha, I was suggesting you pay Joe a visit, since he's in Iowa too. I haven't really made it a standard product yet, but the beta testing should be about over by now, since he's been running it for two years.

Here's the prototype Hall effect pickup plate. A rotor mounts to the crankshaft, and a little magnet on it passes by the three circuit boards. The main CDI box looks similar to an early H1 12V cdi unit, but it has three outputs that drive three coils directly, eliminating the distributor. The actual Hall effect sensor is the surface mount IC nearest the crank centerline. The white square things on the boards are LEDs that allow timing of the system to be done statically. The Hall effect sensors don't care about engine speed, so if you time it statically, it's also timed through the whole RPM range.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.