Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Had a sytech actuator on my bike for a couple of years now and allways loved it and wondered why people winged about them. As long as it is adjusted right. But since i overhauled my tranny and backcut the gear dogs its not so nice. Need more push on the rod as clutch drags just tiny a bit and is hard too find neutral when engine running at lights. Probably not a problem with square dogs. Read on forum about the redrilling of the hole on the arm 10mm in closer too give it more travel. Great idea, but looks too me that the cable will rub on the ali where it goes through the hole in the cases. (and wear the cable) I will gve it a try. see how it goes, it it doesnt work i might put the old nylon one dack in and take a concrete pill
Has anyone listening had the same problem and 10mm about right? Just asking for your thoughts.
Cheers Coops

Years ago I posted on the old board that the stock Sytec does not move the clutch rod as far as the stock unit.
I forget the number but think it was about .080" less travel when measured against the basket face.
Before Mark came up with the great idea to re-drill for a higer ratio, I used a different clutch lever in the stock perch which helped alot.
After the stock perch broke, I took Steve's advice and fitted an EX clutch perch and lever that also works well.
Stock mirror fits too.

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Hi,

you can take one of our new design with a longer way (movement) like the Sytech. it was changed because of the same problems you describe, especially at the H1 engines. Rick Brett has one of them in his modified engine, and I could tear it in SPA and it works perfect, he also agreed. We sold many of them without any problem.
Only one guy had a problem with a special modified clutch, but I don't know why.

All the best from Germany
Ralf

Drill the hole, it works fine.

(i was the one who did it actually)

I will drill the hole.
Is 10mm closer correct Mark?
Thanks for your replys

yup. basically, just move it in a bit. i just popped the hole, it turned out to be 10mm inboard from the original hole.

I have one of them and it woksa perfectly!!! Price is right too

Daniele from Italy

I also drilled the hole about 10mm back and it worked fine. It was on a customers 72 H1-B (from hell) that had a new factory clutch , H2 springs and an undercut trans. Before I modified it, the clutch lever had to have NO freeplay and was still a bear to get into neutral. Now it works fine.
Just do it.
Thad Q.

Surely drilling that hole closer to the pivot point somewhat negates the gain of the finer thread of the worm and brings it back toward the Kawasaki part as far as leverage/effort/lift goes?

Yup, you've hit the nail on the head!!!

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