Kawi2strokes.com Forum
http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/

Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2462		 Page 1 of 4
Author:  ade [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
OK so I have the oil pump problem sorted out and have fitted new points and condensers I took it out just now for another spin. The bike is still bogging down and just not happy between 4-6000rpm!!

I originally thought it was running rich on the MJ which was part number 100,(Needles were set at second from the top) So I put in a set of 95's and set the needles to the middle groove. Went out again and still no difference so I'm now starting to think 'Ignition' or coil?

The only thing I haven't tried yet was to move the clip to the very top groove to make it run as lean as possible on the PJ to see if this cleared the problem.

I have set the timing at 2.26 mm BTDC and believe me it is 'spot-on'. The engine runs as 'sweet as a sweet thing' when ticking over and revs freely, its only when under load that the problem exists.

If I coax it past 6K in the first 2 gears it will haul ass as it should, providing that is the revs are kept above 7000rpm which sort of says to me that when the bike is running on MJ 'only' things are OK. Like I say I have only recently bought this bike and it has been the subject of an enthusiastic (But rather amateur restoration) New parts include:-

Wiseco Pistons
Rebuilt Crank
New points
Condensors
Carb rebuild Kits (2.0 Slide Cutaways, PJ=30, MJ= 95,Needles have Y32 written on them??
Aftermarket Air Filter from Z Power (UK) https://www.z-power.co.uk/merchantmanag ... p?pID=2061

The Carb rebuild kit that was used is now under my scrutiny as the needles are 'Y32' WTF is that?? By rights from my understanding they should be 5DJ19 or at a push 5GL3.

Where can I get some proper needles??

As a bit of background I know a little bit about carburation as I have an immaculate and 100% original 1990 TZ 250A with 78 bhp at the wheel (Reverse Cylinder) and an RS 250 priller with better than 72 bhp at the wheel both of which I built myself.

The pics are of the old days when I was racing my 750 Kwack in the Manx Grand Prix. The motor was to H2R spec with a rare 3 cylinder Femsa ignition, it was housed in a cantilever Yamaha TZ 750 (OW31) chassis (late 70's early 80's)

All advice from you young'uns is greatly appreciated as I fully realize that things have moved on a great deal since the 80's.

Cheers :thumbup:
Author:  Ja-Moo [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
First DO NOT use anything in the carb kits other than the fuel valve and seat and bowl gasket. The rest is total JUNK. Use only genuine Mikuni jets, and put in your old needles.
Author:  ade [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
Ja-Moo wrote:
First DO NOT use anything in the carb kits other than the fuel valve and seat and bowl gasket. The rest is total JUNK. Use only genuine Mikuni jets, and put in your old needles.


I think I need some needles...........................I have now researched and found these I have are made by Keyster :x I have already replaced the MJ's with genuine Mikuni parts.
Author:  mraxl [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
Second, set timing to 23-25 degrees.

What kind of chambers do you run?
Author:  Looney Cylinders [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
mraxl wrote:
Second, set timing to 23-25 degrees.


He's been now told this at least 3 times (including from other boards too). The author insists he knows best for a Kaw 500 and wants to run on only 20 degrees. :banghead 20 degrees might work at 11,000 rpms with chambers that WORK but.........

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/pistonpos.htm
Author:  Ja-Moo [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
What can you do....... :eh: even 23 degrees kills the bottom end on the 500's.........
Author:  mraxl [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
Thanks, Scott :banghead
Author:  ade [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
Looney Cylinders wrote:
mraxl wrote:
Second, set timing to 23-25 degrees.


He's been now told this at least 3 times (including from other boards too). The author insists he knows best for a Kaw 500 and wants to run on only 20 degrees. :banghead 20 degrees might work at 11,000 rpms with chambers that WORK but.........

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/pistonpos.htm


Errr................. WTF is it with the attitude mate.

Are you just the sort of person that just does attitude rather than just advice?? I have been honest with you guys. I am running ( And have always been running) a completely stock H1A with points set up which is what I have inherited, advice is all I'm asking not abuse. So you can stick your attitude up your ass mraxl OK :D .

Please quote me in the other posts you are apparently referring to you CS!! :e2
Author:  mraxl [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
Quote:
So you can stick your attitude up your ass mraxl OK .

OK! :crazy:
Author:  ade [ Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Bogging down between 4-6000 rpm
mraxl wrote:
Quote:
So you can stick your attitude up your ass mraxl OK .

OK! :crazy:



So.................... Yer saying to me that 2.25mm BTDC is complete bollox and 3.46mm BTDC is (and always was) the sweet spot on an H1A with points using a stock set-up?
Page 1 of 4 All times are UTC - 5 hours
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
http://www.phpbb.com/