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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:07 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
The 3 into one line is the hardest to measure, as you have to check all 3 valves at once. I have done it a few times, with a bit of a twist.

I submerge all 3 valves in water so I can see the bubbles from the valves. When done on all lines, I change the pressure tester line to one from an oil squirt can full of the engine oil I will use, and very gently fill the lines, so I don't have to use the engine to fill them. Makes them easier to bleed, only need to use a bead blasted clean set of plugs to run the oil system in. When done, I swap the good plugs and go ride the engine clean of excess engine oil. The plugs I use as "beaters" are ones taken out on a last tune and service, worn out, cleaned, gaps reset, just there to keep the engine running for the line fill.

One thing you might do when you go to the pressure test is to post the differences in readings from vacuum to pressure for all of us, please, I am sure we'd all like to see the differences, if any. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 12:38 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 54
Location: california
Tuner I was going to set each valve at 4.6 then put then back together on the 3 into 1 is the pop going to change after they're assembled, won't they all pop at 4.6? The water check is a good idea so I'll make a separate test line to test all 3 at once before I do the finial assembly and also check what the pop is when oil is in the line.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 1:48 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
You can do each separately, that will work, but, get all 3 as close together as is possible. If you go too far with a spring, it can be gently compressed between thumb and index finger to reduce it back down. Key is to go very slowly, and check, check, check.

Water works better than an oil when checking, it seems to just react better. Or, dry and listen for the valve to operate, hold it close to an ear. Not very scientific, but, it works either method.

Submerging a line in water also works to show bubbles from leaky joints where the check valves meet the lines. Some are threaded, other joints are glued.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 9:12 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 54
Location: california
[Image][/img]Image

Here is a pic of what it will look like when I'm done, the bottom line is an original 3 into 1 oil line and the top is the proto type I'm working on.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Very nice work! :clap:

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 12:19 am 

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:57 pm
Posts: 847
Location: Monterey Ca
Can you tell us how you may the lines and where to buy the lines parts ??

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Current bikes: H1 69,71,72,76 KH 500, H2 72(2),73,74,75(3) , 77RD 400, 08 KLR 650. 76 KZ 900, Yamaha RZ 500, ihave so many triples gave up listing them.
Have seversl tons of H1/H2/S parts for sale, http://www.triplestuff.net dhg1337@gmail.com


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 4:16 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
John said it right on, very nice work, indeed.

I got aggressive a lot of years ago, and made my own lines out of single cylinder Enduro engine check valves and a more flexible "hose". They are still in service, no problems, but way too much effort.

I have seen some of the very early synthetic oils, and excessive engine heat from poor tuning measures cause the stock line material get very brittle and crack/break. Rare, but it happened.

That is why I did the more flexible, less sensitive line material ones.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 11:48 am 

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 54
Location: california
Thanks, I started to search for these lines must have been before darth came out with his rebuild-able valves and couldn't fined anyone who was making them so it's been at least a 1 1/2 years in the making, these lines are rigged but flexible, heat and chemical resistant. I'm thinking of providing a service for new 3 into 1 oil lines since no one is making anything with this type of check valve. I'm waiting for parts to start the pressure test but don't expect them to arrive until after the new year so I won't be able to post test results until February, I've got to many projects going on in January and don't have the time for testing.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 12:53 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Might look in the manuals for a "volume pumped" specification. That was another one of the tests.

It literally measured the volume of oil pumped through the line at a set pump rpm, pump cable baile operating position. This test may well also help make sure all 3 valves pump the same/equal volume for those 3 output check valves.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 5:48 pm 

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 54
Location: california
No not going there these bikes never had tight tolerances if they did maybe they wouldn't have seized up so much, beside not setup for pump delivery and not planning to in the future. Here's an example I did a negative pressure test (10 psi) on all the the valves (dry) they all had a slow leak even after being seated perfectly, a little oil and none of them leaked. I have 3 new valves for the carbs they leaked also so that tells me quality control isn't that tight and that they relied on oil for a tighter seat.
I have a feeling that when I do the positive test (dry) the valves will have small leaks before they pop, add a drop of oil
and no leaks and thinking 6-7 psi for the pop. Once I get the oil line finished that will be a big problem solved, got to start putting the bike together it's been sitting to long.


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