Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Ok, thanks Jim!

By the way, should I check the oil pump setting after adjusting idle?

When adjusting the cables, carbs and oil pump, which one is the best method: Triple Maintenance Manual/Glenns or the Kawasaki Shop Manual?

Idle adjustment won't cause a need for pump adjustment.

Either of those manuals is fine. Pick the one you like better.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Thanks Jim!

We did get a proper idle by warming up the engine and adjusting the throttle stop screws on the carburetors.

Then I took the bike for a ride, and after a while the idle rpm got higher and the revs wouldn't lower as expected when pulling in the clutch.

We had to turn in the adjustment screw for the middle cylinder to get the idle rpm back to normal.

So it seems center runs better when hot, but exhaust pressure still feels weak when compared to the outer cylinders.

We also noticed there is leakage at the head gaskets so that needs to be examined too.

Maybe it's time for a compression test and a crank seal test (per one of the resource site's procedures).

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I would say after this threads' 16 page and 4.5 year span, that something more serious needs to be done to fix this finally. Motor has multiple problems and is basically a basket case of leaks and issues that can only be solved by an actual rebuild by someone that has done these motors before.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

Looked at the resource site and it doesn't seem overly difficult to make a crank seal test kit oneself?

It makes sense to be sure if it really is bad seals before I spend money on an engine rebuild.

Well, the bike looks like new and had zero (0) miles on the odometer. The only things that are missing are the manual and the keys to the seat latch and the steering lock. I would be very surprised if this engine has ever been apart or if it's even broken in. It has the Dunlop Gold Seal K77 och K87 tires on it with only small age cracks. Seems too good to be true, but who knows? The only strange thing is that I received a NOS wiring loom with the bike.

I'm not trying to brag about it though.

I want to build a crankcase pressure/vacuum test kit similar to this: http://kawatriple.com/cranksealtest/cranksealkit.htm

Anyone have any additional suggestions?

I have seen that marine shops sells pumps that combine pressure and vacuum.

Where is the best place to connect the gauge and the pump?

This looks like a good pump choice: https://www.skf.com/mityvac/products/hand-vacuum-pressure-pumps/hand-pumps/mv8510