Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I don't know about tuning the triples yet ( I suck at it so far)
But on the other bikes I've worked on, carb on the side, check float heights, and if possible check the fuel level.
I have found on other bikes fuel level to be a better indicator than float height, what I found is the float height set to specs the fuel level was higher than what was needed or per spec.
BUT AGIAN this wasn't on a triple.

I like how the Keihin guys do it... With the carb upright, blow into the inlet with carb, note the height it seals and measure. This confirms your needle and seat are working properly at the same time.

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http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

I wonder if this isn't a distinction without a difference?
-Float valves used are from various manufacturers
-Do they all have the same specs on needle length?
-Do they all have same specs on spring rate?
-Surely there are other factors as well

(H series)
-Most of the guys I know that set float height with inverted carb bodies use 25.0 setting
-Spec is 23.0-25.0
-If set at 25.0 inverted how far off nominal (24.0) would it be on side?

There are a lot of variables involved including how much solder is used and a sample size of one probably wouldn't prove anything one way or another but it would be interesting to know how much difference there is.

Setting fuel level rather than float height bypasses all those variables but few will modify carbs to make a check that way.

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There are apparently different methods...

(Ignore the mini-driver)

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

There is technical and practical applications.

When using a fork, the practical instruction is to make sure the tine end is opposite your hand, and not to stick the tines in your lips or gums. That's it.

On the technical end, I'm sure someone can write a 400 page technical manual on a forks length, balance, tine spacing, number of tines, material, corrosion resistance, and a 100 other things. Which in the end, is really unneeded/useless information, in actually using a fork.

As far as practical use, float height/fuel level, only has 2 purposes, 1. To regulate the fuel amount to feed the engine at all throttle positions/RPM. 2. To make jetting consistent, as fuel height differences changes the fuel weight, which in turn effect jetting. That's it.

It seems Mikuni (and other carb manufactures) have a "range". that allows changes without having to change the jetting. And if the floats are set upside down, on their side or by fuel level, if you actually use that range, they will be in spec.

I would also say few and I mean few motorcycle dealers reset float height on hundreds of thousands of new bikes. They wouldn't take on the shop cost. And if it was so bad, no new bike would run worth a crap, and we know that wasn't the truth. I

The only thing one really has to look at is not changing the float level radically, as that will change the jetting. Other than that if you are in factory range, any method works the same.

And Rod, the BFD wasn't directed at anyone, it was directed at why over-complicate a super simple, quick, and accurate process? 2 minutes and you are done with the upside-down adjustment.

And the fact is, when a motor is running and the bikes is being ridden, the fuel in the bowls is all over the place anyway. Vibration, fuel being used/added and the bike leaned, accelerating and stopping. Any minor difference in adjustment is not going to cause any problems..........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Yeah, but what about the guys that don't accelerate/decelerate rapidly and remain upright in turns/curves?

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We don't have to worry, those are Honda guys..........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Guess that settles it then, not aimed at anyone, and the way it should be done. Good to know that there are only two reasons for setting floats, as I was, and still am aware of many more, but, two is a good enough start, it seems.

One of the things I used to do when I first went to work at dealerships, and I was the out of the crate new bike setup guy, was to pull the carbs and set the floats correctly, by float level, to factory specs. Even if the bike would only stay on the sales floor, I did that, so it didn't have to be done on initial lube and fire up after sale.

On EVERY bike I have ever done a first tune and service by me on, no matter the make/type/strokes, was to pull the carbs, and set the floats.

I use a Honda float bridge tool, modified to fit past the raised bowl guides for Mikuni, Hitachi and other carb makes, past Keihin. I even use that same Honda tool on all the car carbs I do as well.

Dale, you'd be surprised at the times the fuel is still flat in the bowl when a bike is leaned over, but how it stacks against a front metering block, and rear bowl wall on a Holley on a street or drag car under hard acceleration, then goes the other direction on hard braking, and up the sides on severe flat cornering. Liquids at different light viscosities do some very strange things when prompted to do so. Basic physics is very interesting.

The reason I asked initially was because it seems that every single Mikuni carb I clean, restore, fix up or whatever you want to call it, leaks. I am completely tired of leaky carbs. The carbs on both 900's I ride leak, the carbs on my H2 leaked, the carbs on the H1 I just finished leaks. The only bike I ride that doesn't leak anything at all ever is the Honda CB750 K1. 39,000 miles and not a drop anywhere. I took those carbs apart and cleaned them too. Why are the bowls on my Kawasaki's all dripping all the time? I just figured I suck at setting float levels. The way I see it, the bowl doesn't need a gasket at all if the fuel level is correct(while it is sitting)because there is no way it can climb up and seep out the sides. This is what confuses me the most.

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

Try something like this: http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-p ... arburetors

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