Kawi2strokes.com Forum

How do you guys shorten bolts and screws when the need arises? I hacksaw off, then grind and file till it works but it doesn't always look the best. Is there a tool or a better way?

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

After you grind (or file) the end of the bolt square you want to chamfer the bolt by pointing it down towards the wheel and turning it, not holding it sideways, this gives the threads a clean end. Also if there is room you should screw a nut onto the bolt before cutting it off, then after the final clean up removing the nut will clear up any burrs left on the end of the threads. If you don't it's easy to cross thread and bugger up the threads trying to put a nut on the first time. If the bolt goes into the frame you always want to run a nut on it first to be sure it goes on clean and easy so it doesn't chew up the threads in the frame.

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

That's what I have been doing but I thought maybe there was some neat homemade tool or something that works really slick.

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

Yes, it's called a lathe!

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

I use a rotary tool (Milwaukee) and a cut-off wheel for small bolts. Bigger bolts get the air-powered cut-off wheel. Always screw a nut on first if you can. File off the burrs then unscrew the nut to clean up the thread. use a die cutter if you want it really nice.

the sucky part about shortening bolts is that (unless stainless) you are compromising the corrosion resistance by cutting away the zinc or chrome plating.

If the end is going to be in a blind hole, then who cares, but if the end of the bolt is to be exposed, a quick and dirty way to deal with this is to get a small jar (with brush) of automotive touch up clear coat. Once everything is torqued together, seal the ends..

or buy a caswell zinc kit....

Screw a nut on first

Use a needle file to work on the final thread so that it reduces in diameter in the same style as the original rolled thread. Takes a keen eye.

SS isn't always strong enough but carefully filing, sanding, polishing the heads (after removing markings) to give a chrome appearance and looks killer (IMO)
Too bad they are too soft to use for all applications.
No good for you restoration guys though.

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)