Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Same thing can happen with fuel too, if I have a bike sitting I like to pull it through a couple of rotations before I put a stiff boot to it. (especially two strokes) Just to make sure the cylinders are clear !

From my testing, I have come to the conclusion that all pumps leak. Some worse than others.

You need new balls and springs and perhaps the check valve seat machined. Most likely the seat is worn beyond the point of sealing again. That's my findings anyway.

If they are of the "serviceable" type ... your good to go.

You can get new springs and seats and try that first.

Darth

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If you look for the bad in people expecting to find it, you surely will.

Fantastic to hear, and, you really did dodge a bullet.

When I used to set up brand new out of the crater bikes, I had a set of old, raunchy, dead, bead blasted "beater" plugs. Instead of running the brand new correct heat range plugs in the engine, and destroying them on set up, I'd run the beaters, then carefully clean the engine out, swap the new correct plugs back in. Never had a fouled plug in any of the new bikes I set up.

Back then, those engines weren't set up from the factory, and you had to set the floats, carb balance, oil pump, check the timing, modify the baffles (open the old style up on the end openings and drill the holes in them larger, take the fiberglass of of the later baffles, drill then holes bigger), etc. And, the fluids in the oiling systems and tanks weren't two stroke oils, but "pickling fluids" to stop corrosion and rubber parts damage in case the bike didn't sell for eons. I literally used a premix fuel tank at 50:1 ratio to fuel yup the carbs while running the engine to get the oil pump primed and the oil lines cleared of the pickling fluid and filled with Kawasaki K2 two stroke oil. After the oiling system was made right, the engine was run until it stalled from no more premix in the carbs, then, the beater plugs came out, fresh straight fuel in the tank, go clean it out, good to go.

Just FYI.

Def will be ordering them if i can get a title for the bike. If not im pretty sure the bike will be sold as is. Shame if i cant get a title.

Carl, some recent threads have shown that it's not enough to just kick it to see if you're going to hydrolock. My understanding is that you need to do something like get at the top of a hill, with a towel over three open spark plug holes, get going 15 mph and let out the clutch in 1st gear. Of course it's easier to just take off the carb boots and suck the oil out of each chamber with something like a big syringe with a tube on it. Then fix your check valves so they work. I finally did this spring, and I think it's the first time my H2 doesn't smoke like crazy when started after sitting for a couple weeks. I don't think the valves were sealing when they were new.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Finally need to do this myself, thanks Dale for all you do.
bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...