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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 10:14 am 

Joined: Sat May 23, 2020 4:41 am
Posts: 187
Location: Morgantown WV USA
Got my crank back from Charlie Smith at Triple Cranks and I'm very pleased with the results. I asked Charlie to throw in my scrap parts for review. Both the lower crank pins and the rods showed pitting corrosion. Here is a pic of one of the rod pins


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Last edited by Goodwrench on Sat Oct 02, 2021 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 10:18 am 

Joined: Sat May 23, 2020 4:41 am
Posts: 187
Location: Morgantown WV USA
And here is my current challenge with this little Frankenbike. I bought this bike to have something to work on and it certainly hasn't disappointed from that standpoint. Looks like I'm in the market for a center cylinder. :(


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 10:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9851
Location: North Central NC
Extra-high cutout early cylinder!

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 12:54 pm 

Joined: Sat May 23, 2020 4:41 am
Posts: 187
Location: Morgantown WV USA
Hi Jim,

Are you saying that this cylinder is not stock for an H1D ?
The cutouts for all three cylinders match. Just wondering what I have here and what I need to be looking for for a replacement.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9851
Location: North Central NC
No, I'm saying that the break created a special extra-high cutout.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:13 pm 

Joined: Sat May 23, 2020 4:41 am
Posts: 187
Location: Morgantown WV USA
LOL - got it!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2021 10:42 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:01 am
Posts: 301
Location: Metamora, MI
Rod pin was due to cavitation of the fluids in there.

Classic, except it goes across the pin? :think:

Skewed needles due to a sloppy rod/worn needles?

:o

What's with the rust and scoring on the jug?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2021 1:17 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3149
Los Angeles Sleeve Company (L.A. Sleeve), can either re-sleeve the cylinder, or supply to your machinist the correct replacement sleeve, if the aluminum barrel isn't cracked. Some small cracks can be welded, but, CAREFULLY.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 11:18 am 

Joined: Sat May 23, 2020 4:41 am
Posts: 187
Location: Morgantown WV USA
OK guys I need some tuner wisdom regarding the transfer ports on my replacement cylinder. All of the ports (Intake and Exhaust) measure stock except the transfers which are 3mm deeper with the tops being stock and the bottoms lower. I will attempt to post three pics showing my original cylinder, replacement cylinder and a top down view of the replacement cylinder transfer port. What has me scratching my head is that while the cylinder liner appears to have been cleaned up, the casting behind the liner does not appear to have been touched. Almost like stock. So here are my questions:

Did Kawasaki ever deviate from stock transfer port sizing though the model years?

If I use this cylinder I will need to port match the other two cylinders. Thoughts on how this will affect performance? I will be running a stock airbox and mufflers.

Fast by Gast will be doing the cylinder work for me.

Thanks for any comments.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2021 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9851
Location: North Central NC
The bottom of the transfer ports is below the piston top at BTC anyway, so not a big deal. I'd make all three cylinder port timings match, clean up all the roughness of the actual ports, and radius all port edges so the rings don't snag. FBG has been around a long time. Whoever is doing their cylinder work should know how to do this stuff, but it might be a good idea to let them take a look at the cylinders and tell you what they plan to do to them.

Are you staying with stock porting, or is FBG going to go for more HP? I've heard that their high-hp port jobs tend to be drag-style and peaky, rather than streetable, but that's just hearsay on my part.

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