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World traveler H2B rebuild
http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=12577
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Author:  Ja-Moo [ Mon Mar 13, 2017 1:31 am ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

The spacers you have installed are not correct and look to be dangerous. The left seal look to be gone also. The pic Dale put up is the correct spacer for the left side, and the one you have for the right is the correct right one.

Author:  DGA [ Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

So I think I understand the rear wheel spacer problem, I am missing that simple spacer XXX-023. The two pics show, I had the other shouldered spacer on the outside and it goes inside the drive hub and the 023 spacer goes on the outside.
Edit, just saw your post, it's not dangerous, I won't ride it unless it's right LOL... Yes I thought there was also a seal missing.

Author:  DGA [ Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

I am fabricating my own chambers, and needed to know the port areas etc, and was thinking about removing a cylinder to measure it, also to see what the actual cylinders were. I have a spare set of H2B cylinders and, knowing my brother well, if there were better cylinders out there, he would be sure to find them and bolt them on, and I was suspect that the spare cylinders I had were the ones off it. So I went to remove the LH cylinder, only to find that it was only lightly tightened, not torqued down. I pulled it off and found the old head and base gaskets on it. I am guessing he went to buy the head and base gaskets from the local Kawasaki importer in Auckland and found nothing available, so just put it together temporarily until he found some somewhere.
It looks to me to be an original H2 cylinder, is still on STD bore, has the high side liners, the brass oil insert, and have been lightly ported.

Author:  DGA [ Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

High side transfers.

Author:  DGA [ Tue Mar 14, 2017 11:33 am ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

OK, the more I look at these cylinders the more I think my brother sleeved them. I don't see any aluminium casting flash on the liners anywhere, and the top was decked just lightly. The liner ports look too perfect, as they would be if they were machined. So I think they are H2 cylinders, but the new liners are not cut down as far as the original H2 ones were, and they have the brass oil inserts. Plus they are on STD, there couldn't be a single bike left that is on standard that has actually been ridden, and the odometer shows 13K miles.

Author:  Ja-Moo [ Tue Mar 14, 2017 1:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

Those are way too thick to be stock liners, so I agree, the cylinders are sleeved. The brass restrictor is normal for 72-73 cylinders. I don't see any trenching up the transfer walls in the sleeve, so you do have reduced transfer area it looks like.

Author:  DGA [ Tue Mar 14, 2017 11:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

The liners are only .015" thicker, they look really thick because it's probably been awhile since anyone saw a standard bore, I think what he did was take up all the clearance in the cylinder to crankcase spigot by making the liners a little larger.
The pistons are H2 spec Wisecos. The old cylinders off the bike, two of them are on last oversize and the third is larger than that, I bet it was a rattly old pig.

Author:  Ja-Moo [ Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

Well, the liners don't look stock.......... :eh:

Author:  DGA [ Wed Mar 15, 2017 3:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

So, back on the LH rear outer wheel spacer, does anyone have one laying around they can put some calipers on and give me an OD and width of? I have searched a bit and none seem to come up, and I have CNC equipment so will just make one.

Author:  mraxl [ Wed Mar 15, 2017 3:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

I believe the thickness is 11.5mm, that's from memory. Can't help with ID, OD but it should be close to what your RH spacer is.

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