Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Trim another friction plate's tabs down to match the short tabs, put the ring onto the hub all the way, and add another steel, should work.

From what I see, the inner hub is a full back plate type, has it been cut the .030? Is the outer friction cover the serrated, timed to the hub style, or, flat steel plate and steel outer friction cover with no teeth?

Are the steel spacers installed correctly between the input shaft bearing, outer hub, inner hub?

we are getting there. i did misfit the last 2 plates. image 001 is the correct installation. Don't know if my inner hub has been cut. the outer friction cover is the serrated. i have plenty old H1 steelplates and fitted them just to see if they would fit image 002.
then re-installed as image 001 all barnett plates with 2 steel plates replaced by 2 mm types.
just tested the bike, no slipping qite heavey cluch handling and good enough gearchange. It stiil sticks a litte but much less then before.
thanks for all your help
i am still curious if my basket is standard.

you do know the pressure plate will fit a lot of ways, but will only work one way, and has to be indexed?

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

That looks a lot better, now. As John said, and I think you are aware, there is a drilled "dot" on the inner hub that should match up with a mark on the pressure plate to fit properly. If they weren't phased correctly, none of the spring cups would fit correctly, and the clutch wouldn't operate at all.

Sounds like you have this well on the way to fixed. Barnett springs are ultra heavy duty, some only fit 3 per clutch, I go all the way, all 5. Clutch release and cable adjustment are more specific with extra plate clutches, and also with Barnett friction plates/springs.

It also appears the outer hub has been "deburred" in a primitive sort of way. The H clutch hubs are steel, and don't usually have 'denting' problems where the tabs contact the grooves in the hubs, unlike the S series clutch hubs that are aluminum and 'dent' somewhat easily.

Some folks shouldn't be allowed to have angle grinders.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Thinking about the deburring of the hub, it looks way too uniform to not be done at the factory. I do know that the hubs were deburred lightly when they were built, usually by persons that did only that job. This looks too uniform, and ground way too much, like a hub, or one of a few hubs that were deburred by a new person, not yet fully acclimated to a "lighter grind".

I don't even think mother Kawi would let that by QC, you can even see where they slipped.......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Oh, no, John, I have seen that sort of work from the factory. Extremely rare, but it did happen. Only thing I would be even remotely concerned about would be stress cracking from the rough "finish" grinding. Although I have seen cracking on the hubs, never on a steel hub, only two on the aluminum ones. Very rare,

Has anyone used the steel clutch basket without the band installed?

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WFO for 51 years
1974 Norton Commando 850 Roadster
1974 H2B
1975 Yamaha DT400B
1975 T160
1984 RZ350
2007 Tiger 1050
2014 Rocket III Touring

I know at least one guy who has a hot-rodded H2 and doesn't use the ring and after many years has not had a problem.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.