Ok - let's get it on...
As I had no access to tools which can press in the roller-bearing race, I had to rely on the old trick:
I borrowed a little space in the wife's freezer, threw in the races and gently heated up the steering head pipe to approx. 40-50 degrees celsius.
The race will shrink a little, and the steering head pipe will expand a little. Enough to make you fit the race with only some gentle blows from a mallet.
Of course you must not hit the revolving part of the bearing. Only hit the race, and to do this carefully, you must hit the top egde with something which has almost the exact same diameter - like the old race, or a socket from a socket wrench set:
Job done:
Somewhat later:
Front- and rear fender are Stainless (in contradiction to Honda for instance)...
... and they were very nice, so it was an easy job to clean and polish them. I sanded the downside and applied 2-3 coats of silver.
Nylon lock nuts are of course not original spec., but I don't wanna tighten nuts on some dark secondary road
Shocks are repro's from Diablo Cycles, but grip, rear fender stay, license plate bracket and tail lamp are the original ones, and hasn't even been rechromed:
Starting to look a LITTLE like something:
- notice the correct Kawasaki bolts
Original Mitsubishi voltage regulator in nice condition with original wires. Just cleaned and polished a bit by hand:
That's all for today folks...
Login
FAQ
Raced it in production racing in Australia, which meant EXACTLY showroom condition, remove the lights and put on no. plates and go racing. Won a few races, in spite of the drum front brake, (which you can get to work...). Swapped for a H2 in '72, which is where my heart is, but had the full H1 experience. In its day, the performance, and, yes, the handling, were at the front of the grid..... so for all the stories about its evil handling, etc. you were still able to look behind you to see where the others were! Throw the centre stand away, and start grinding on the mufflers for ground clearance.......! 
