|
Tim, looks like you are having fun with it, looks just like race day. That will be an even nicer bike when you get it all done the way you want it.
One thing I do to any and all new fork seals while replacing them, is to tighten up the tension springs on them.
The procedure is to pull the seal springs out of the seal, and carefully look at the coils. There will be a place on the spring that appears to have one coil missing, an indention. This is where the spring coils are twisted together. Once the spring has been untwisted (just like unscrewing a bolt from a bolt hole), there will be one end with a same size coil straight cut, and the other will have the coils tapering down smaller to the end.
I usually cut off 8 to 10 coils off the straight end, literally shortening the overall coil length, dress the end smooth on my bent sander, and twist the coils back together to reform the coiled tension spring.
Yes, this does increase the tension of the seal face media to the tube, but, I have never had any issues with the mythical "stiction", nor tube/slider drag. All it seems to do is help stop the seals from leaking soon after replacement.
We used to do this same spring shortening method to BMW Boxer engine rear main engine seals after BMW started to disallow warrantee replacement of them. They even trumped up guidelines, in cc's of fluid leakage, "weepage", no big deal, "seepage", "keep an 'eye' on the situation", and, "leakage", "OK, go ahead and replace the seal, just make sure it was actually leaking".
Just more info from stuff we used to do, and still do today.
|
Login
FAQ
