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Ja-Moo
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:58 pm 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
m in sc wrote:
only if some dope is cranking on the kicker while its on the sidestand and the other foot is on the LH peg. any bike will fail under that abuse eventually.

um, soem had metal to metal bushings on rd's. ive used those, they work fine.


I thought I read water was getting in the frame, and it was the low spot and rusted through. This was a few years ago.

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evansje1
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:14 pm 
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Location: Heber Springs, Arkansas
m in sc wrote:
only if some dope is cranking on the kicker while its on the sidestand and the other foot is on the LH peg. any bike will fail under that abuse eventually.

um, soem had metal to metal bushings on rd's. ive used those, they work fine.


I am going to stay with the metal bushings as they have a nice fit on the swing arm shaft. I now have a set of bronze bushings for sale :D 1/2 price if you need them Tim.

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evansje1
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:17 pm 
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Location: Heber Springs, Arkansas
Ja-Moo wrote:
m in sc wrote:
only if some dope is cranking on the kicker while its on the sidestand and the other foot is on the LH peg. any bike will fail under that abuse eventually.

um, soem had metal to metal bushings on rd's. ive used those, they work fine.


I thought I read water was getting in the frame, and it was the low spot and rusted through. This was a few years ago.


I know them suckers will roll off the sidestand if you ain't careful. I only use my sidestand now if the front wheel is pointed up hill.

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Tim Steele
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 2:10 am 
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Caliper done
Thanks EconomyCycle for the first rate rebuild kit and caliper grease. About 30 minutes with the Dremel and a brass wire wheel, low speed. Lots of air and carb cleaner and Bob's Your Uncle, ready for the pistons and pads
Image

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evansje1
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:52 am 
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Location: Heber Springs, Arkansas
Got new braided lines? My 40 year old lines were way too soft.

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Tim Steele
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:28 am 
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Looking for guidance on availability of braided lines that will adapt to the stock steel lines and splitter or bypass it all together. I'm sure someone has done it. I have one good (upper ) rubber line. The lower rubber line I have is bad.

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...
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m in sc
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:30 am 
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http://www.economycycle.com/servlet/the-692/Brake-Line-Kit--dsh-/Detail
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evansje1
PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:59 pm 
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Location: Heber Springs, Arkansas
You will loose the stock brake light switch if you run the single line. I went with the dual black line from HVC. Retains the brake switch manifold.

http://hvccycle.com/brakelines.html

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Tim Steele
PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:20 am 
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There are a couple of variables with ordering new steel braided line(s) I just thought of. Thanks Mark and John for the links. :thumbup: :thumbup: I don't know which length to get because I don't have the bike here with the superbike bars mounted to it to get a proper measurement for the upper line or total line length. So I am going to get a good lower rubber line from a very nice guy on 2SW (Brad Man), who was kind enough to give me a good lower brake line for the price of shipping and that will do initially. The whole front end has to come back apart to install the new forks and tire as soon as I get back. I will have plenty of time to order the right length steel braided line(s) before the Gap.

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Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
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Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...
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evansje1
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:46 pm 
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Location: Heber Springs, Arkansas
Parts ready for powder coat. How's your girlie bike coming along, Tim?

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And a bunch of girlie bike parts all in a row :!:

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